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What do you feed your geckos?
I used to feed all of my New Caledonian species a diet based almost solely on Repashy Crested Gecko Diet (CGD) Meal Replacement Powder v3.0. It is a marketed as a complete, balanced formula without the need for additional supplementation of any kind. For many people it works wonderfully, though unfortunately early in 2013 I began having problems with the newest formula, and I was not the only one. My geckos simply stopped eating it, no matter what I tried - acceptance was 0-5% throughout the collection for months. I also had problems with unexplained deaths (even after necropsy), poor egg production, and calcium issues. As a result, I needed to try comparable alternatives (complete diets), though thankfully now some very good ones have become available.

I now feed primarily Pangea Fruit Mix Complete Gecko Diet and would recommend it to anyone - in all the years I've had geckos I have never had so many clean dishes as I do with this food (my geckos prefer the Watermelon Mango flavor). I also rotate in Big Fat Geckos Smoothie Mix and Clark's Complete Frugivorous Gecko Diet (papaya flavor for my collection). I feel confident that my geckos are still getting the nutrition they need, and would be happy to discuss this with anyone who has questions. Juvenile geckos are also occasionally fed dusted, gutloaded crickets to add additonal protein to their diet. Please note that because I believe diet is so important, I will not knowingly buy from or sell a gecko to someone providing a diet consisting of only insects, something of their own concoction, or feeding baby food (even "supplemented"). Many unlucky geckos suffer from Metabolic Bone Disease as a result of these diets, including "Bubba" of Dragontown Reptiles. He is photographic proof of the extreme deformities that can occur from an improper diet.

What type of setups do you keep your geckos in?
My geckos are in a variety of cage styles, depending on many factors (such as age/size, gender, and individual gecko preference!) - glass terrariums/aquariums, sterilite tubs, and critter keepers are all utilized. Almost all of the cages are set up with paper towels as substrate to allow for the ease of monitoring levels of eating and pooping. Every cage is full of a variety of climbing and hiding areas including silk/plastic plants, vines, repti-hammocks, corkbark, paper towel/toilet paper tubes, and egg crates for the hatchlings.

I keep a few crested females together full time in compatible pairs, but not male/female pairs (I introduce the male for a short time at the start of breeding season and then he is returned to his cage). Crested gecko hatchlings (while still small) are kept only with clutchmates to prevent tail loss/bullying, and gargoyle hatchlings each have their own critter keeper.

From left to right are the following: A hatchling critter keeper setup, the "baby shelves", an example of a typical tub setup, and my only two mesh cages (wrapped in plastic wrap to maintain humidity).

Is the care of gargoyle geckos any different than cresteds?
Essentially the husbandry requirements of the two species are the same (temperature, diet, etc). However, gargoyle geckos are much more aggressive to their own kind and must be housed singly, even as hatchings. They also grow slower, though babies are robust and handleable right out of the egg! Check out the resources link for caresheets about both species that include more in-depth information.

Do you handle your babies - what kind of attitude can I expect if I buy one of your geckos?
I do handle all my geckos on a regular basis, especially young ones that I expect to sell. I like my geckos to be as handleable as possible. However, if you already own other geckos you'll know that each one has a different personality and nothing is guaranteed! Some are just flightier than others. I always try to provide potential customers with a description of each gecko's potential attitude. However, no matter the gecko, I still recommend a period of at least two weeks (this is my personal minimum) after arrival where you do not handle the gecko and allow it to settle into its new home. Ideally, your gecko should be eating (and pooping) on a regular basis before you start handling.

How do you sex young geckos?
I use a 30x and 60x jewelers loupe to look for preanal pores (usually over 5 grams though I'll take a peek smaller if requested), and occasionally photograph the vent area and examine it in detail when magnified on my computer screen. If I have any idea as for sex I will label young geckos as "potential" or "probable" female/male, and note whether or not pores were seen with the methods mentioned previously. Please note that unless specifically labeled as "guaranteed" female or male, I am not liable if the gecko turns out to be the opposite of what I guessed (because that's just what it is, my best guess)!

Why should I buy from you instead of another breeder?
It is your choice where you buy your gecko(s) and I respect a customer's right to choose. However, some of the things I can say I am proud of when I sell geckos from my collection is that they are healthy and thriving, I can almost always provide you a background on any particular gecko, I can give you individual information (personality, etc) on all animals, and I am always available for pre and after-purchase support. I purposely keep my collection small enough that I interact with each gecko on a regular basis, without sacrificing bloodlines and quality. I am breeding for quality, not quantity! I am happy to answer questions that anyone might have about my animals, even if they aren't necessarily interested in purchasing (visit the "Contact" page to get ahold of me). I truly enjoy talking about these amazing species that I have such a passion for, and am thankful for the relationships that I have forged just as being a part of the hobby.

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